Saturday, February 20, 2010

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Vision

When Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey first decided to develop a high performance tourbillon regulator, they set out to both pay homage to its famous inventor, Abraham Louis Breguet, and to make a decisive technical advancement.
In order to respond to the specific requirements of the tourbillon in a wristwatch, Greubel Forsey developed an innovative double tourbillon. One carriage, rotating in 60 seconds and inclined at 30°,  rotates inside another, which is itself rotating every four minutes. Rotating a tourbillon inside another tourbillon in this manner averages out errors induced by the force of gravity on the balance. The construction allows for superior chronometric performance; a minimum volume/maximum balance diameter ratio; and enables the superbly finished mechanism to be appreciated visually.
The Double Tourbillon 30° is now available in two renditions: 'Vision' and 'Secret'. Vision features an open dial displaying the complication for all to view, while 'Secret' conceals its artistry behind the dial while allowing viewing discreetly through the display back.

Technical Data:
Case: Other Category: Complication/Fine watchmaking
Bracelet strap: Leather Size: Ø 44.0 mm
Buckle: Folding Buckle Thickness: 16.0 mm
Setting: No Waterproofness: 30 m
Movement: Not available
Manufacture movement
Functions: Tourbillon, Power-reserve indication
Reference: n/a Collection: Inventions
Year: 2008

Sources info: World Tempus






























Friday, February 19, 2010

Did You Know...

Have you ever wondered, what is the 21 jewels in my automatic watch means?
Well, heres your answer..

The jewel movement involves the use of jewels within the mens watches to act as bearings at the wheel train as well as around the escapement lever. These are areas within a watch component where wear and tear is the most prominent.

Tiny synthetic gem crystals are set between many of the gears, in order to reduce friction. These gems resist temperature better than metal, and hold lubricant much longer.

Firstly they are extremely hard (it can be as hard as diamonds) to withstand high frequency of abrasion and wearing. Secondly, its smooth surface is perfect for the various steel components in the watch to operate on with much reduced friction.

With the high load and high speed motions within watches, the two advantages of ruby clearly outweigh any possibility of using steel bushings.


There are many categories of jewel movement, for example, 17 jewels, 21 jewels, or 25 jewels. The actual meaning of these numbers is just a representation on the number of rubies used within the mens watches.


Qns: Does it mean that having a 21 jewel movement would equate to better quality than a 17 jewel movement?
Ans:
Well, not really. The higher numbers reflects more jewels used for the parts to prevent more specific wearing. Or watches with more moving mechanical components would require additional rubies to be fitted in to reduce friction in these areas.In short, a cheap or poorly constructed 25 jewel movement can be less accurate and shorter-lived than a well crafted 21 jewel movement.

More jewels indicate a more complicated movement, which is why many watch enthusiasts are wiling to pay over the odds for them. Also, the more jewels used, the less wear there is on the watch parts.


But it does not necessarily mean better quality watch is being produced. Some watch enthusiasts would not be able to appreciate ridiculously high number jewels if the mechanisms of these mens watches do not require it.


In fact, these rubies are worth about $0.02 each. There is hardly any nominal value attached. Importantly, it is how the rubies are used based on the watch design and components to bring out its best in performance and reliability.





Bell & Ross- BR Minuteur Tourbillon

One of the most striking aspects of the Bell & Ross Minuteur Tourbillon is that it is immediately recognizable as a BR "Instrument," but it is like no other watch in the collection. The case is rectangular rather then square and measures 50mm in diameter and 44mm in height. The size of the case, the strong, bold shape of the bezel and the weight of solid 18 karat rose gold make for a seriously impressive instrument. The case is equipped with a screw-locking crown and is awarded a water resistance rating of 100 meters. This structural strength also represents Bell & Ross' dedication to making professional-quality watches.


The complications of the Minuteur Tourbillon come together on the watch's dial. The first thing that the dial does is to meld the beauty and sophistication of rose gold with the functional and modern nature of the timepiece. This is achieved using carbon fiber. The sporty material is framed by rose gold and gold hour markers and hands are applied. The beauty of the flying tourbillon is accentuated by the used of rose gold for the its carousel. The dial also gives the watch its name as the chronograph minute counter is specially configured to read the time as a decimal value. For professionals that can afford the pink gold Minuteur tourbillon, every tenth of an hour counts.

From what i researched on the net, this timepiece was believed cost up to 150,000.


Thursday, February 18, 2010

Omega- Mission hills world cup

OMEGA celebrates its status as the title sponsor of one of the oldest and most prestigious global golf team events with the launch of the Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronograph “OMEGA Mission Hills World Cup”.

Powered by OMEGA’s exclusive Calibre 3313 complete with a Co-Axial escapement, these self-winding Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronographs provide unparalleled performance for sportsmen who understand the value of precision matched with power. The highly tactile aesthetics of these 41mm watches are achieved by contrasting surface finishes, a stunning carbon patterned dial and black rubber coated features making them a perfect ally for outdoor sports.

Available in either 18-carat brushed red gold or titanium with a brushed finish, the case of the Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronograph is a bold combination of classic Constellation features and contemporary design strategies including the incorporation of black rubber.

On the 18-carat red gold version, the bezel is lacquer-coated, while the crown and pushers are in brushed red gold. Red gold Roman numerals are surrounded by the glossy lacquer of the bezel making a daring design statement and the red gold crown displays the OMEGA logo.
On the titanium model, in keeping with the watch’s sporty appeal and in dramatic contrast to the sleek brushed finish of the case, the bezel, crown and pushers have been coated with black rubber. The bezel features steel Roman numerals and in the same way, the rubber coated crown displays the OMEGA logo, a technical achievement and a world premier.


Franck Muller- Aeternitas Mega 4

A tycoon named Mr. Michael J. Gould on the left presented the first Aeternitas Mega 4 personally by Mr. Franck Muller and Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, the co-founders of the Franck Muller.

On Saturday, 7th November, the first Aeternitas Mega 4 Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon watch from Franck Muller was officially delivered to its owner in the prestigious interior of the salon Empire, in the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo.

The event mentioned was a crowning point of the extremely demanding project, initiated in 2004. The Aeternitas Mega 4 watch happens to be the most complicated timepiece ever produced in the world, with 1483 individual elements. The movement of the watch incorporates 36 complications: 25 of them can be admired via the dial and through the case-back window.


This complicated timepiece has now replaced the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 timepiece which held the title of the world’s most complicated watch. With a price tag of $2.27 million this watch is also the most expensive timepiece to be sold outside of an auction.

The lucky owner of this prestigious timepiece was watch collector Mr. Michael J. Gould who arrived in his private jet from his home in Colorado USA, together with his family and friends to collect this complicated watch. He was presented the first Aeternitas Mega 4 personally by Mr. Franck Muller and Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, the co-founders of the Franck Muller Manufacture in front of an audience of 400 guests from all over the world, including dignitaries representing the Monegasque government.




An extraordinary creation, the Aeternitas Mega 4, is touted to be the world’s most complicated wrist-watch, with 36 complications, of which 25 are visible on the dial and on the back, composed of 1483 individual components.

Bovet- 7-day Tourbillon with Jumping Hours


This lyrical timepiece is a result of passion: a combination of high watchmaking know-how and a sense of detail and decoration. The two main BOVET’s complications, the Tourbillon and the Jumping Hours, are being together expressed in all their nuance and lustre.
The dial, openwork on engraved bridges in Fleurisanne style, reveals the complications, the Tourbillon cage at 3 o’clock with its “Lotus Flower” motif, the 7 days (168 hours) power reserve counter at 9 o’clock and the Jumping Hours rotating disk in the centre of the dial. The minutes are indicated by the rotating triangle while the seconds are running with the serpentine hand on the cage of the tourbillon.

Technical Data:
Case: Pink Gold Category: Complication/Fine watchmaking
Bracelet strap: Leather Size: Ø 47.0 mm
Buckle: Folding Buckle Thickness: 16.0 mm
Setting: No Waterproofness: 30 m
Movement: Selfwinding mechanical
Haute horlogerie finishing
Functions: Tourbillon, Power-reserve indication, Jumping hours
Reference: n/a Collection: Fleurier Complications
Year: 2009 Limited Edition: 50 Pieces

Sources info: World Tempus


Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Bovet- The Amadeo

“Back to classic” seems to be the motto of the season, and Bovet remains true to its own brand essence with a “classic” example of technical ingenuity.

The Amadeo line—named for the son of Bovet’s owner since 2001, Pascal Raffy—allows the brand’s Fleurier collection to be worn in four ways: as a wristwatch (with either front or back showing), a pocket watch, a pendant, or a desk clock.

A convertible Fleurier tourbillon with power reserve and personalized miniature painting on the back with second time zone.

The very remarkable thing about this timepiece collection’s versatility is that the ergonomic metamorphosis can be achieved without the use of tools. Bovet had been experimenting with the convertible idea for seven years. While the concept is not new to watchmaking, its implementation has certainly rarely been this easy for the wearer. Bovet evolved the concept—which began life as a complete set of parts and tools costing 60,000 Swiss francs above the retail cost of the watch itself—so that it can now be achieved with a few simple clicks and far less cost in manufacturing and to the consumer. In fact, the convertible version of any Fleurier timepiece is now only 1,000 Swiss francs above the watch’s retail, and this cost is chiefly due to the luxurious pocket watch chain.

The Amadeo as a convertible tourbillon with jump hours indication

Roy Davidoff of Bovet explains that the Amadeo begins an “era of flexibility” for the company headquartered in Geneva and with movement manufacturing facilities in Tramelan. Not only can the timepiece be securely transformed in a matter of mere seconds without the use of tools, but Bovet also now offers dial personalization on a smaller scale than the previously available full-scale miniature paintings for a surcharge of only 2,000 Swiss francs. Part of Bovet’s attraction in the modern age has been to offer high-quality personalization for any of its models through custom miniature dial paintings.

Sources info: World Tempus