Saturday, February 20, 2010

Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Vision

When Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey first decided to develop a high performance tourbillon regulator, they set out to both pay homage to its famous inventor, Abraham Louis Breguet, and to make a decisive technical advancement.
In order to respond to the specific requirements of the tourbillon in a wristwatch, Greubel Forsey developed an innovative double tourbillon. One carriage, rotating in 60 seconds and inclined at 30°,  rotates inside another, which is itself rotating every four minutes. Rotating a tourbillon inside another tourbillon in this manner averages out errors induced by the force of gravity on the balance. The construction allows for superior chronometric performance; a minimum volume/maximum balance diameter ratio; and enables the superbly finished mechanism to be appreciated visually.
The Double Tourbillon 30° is now available in two renditions: 'Vision' and 'Secret'. Vision features an open dial displaying the complication for all to view, while 'Secret' conceals its artistry behind the dial while allowing viewing discreetly through the display back.

Technical Data:
Case: Other Category: Complication/Fine watchmaking
Bracelet strap: Leather Size: Ø 44.0 mm
Buckle: Folding Buckle Thickness: 16.0 mm
Setting: No Waterproofness: 30 m
Movement: Not available
Manufacture movement
Functions: Tourbillon, Power-reserve indication
Reference: n/a Collection: Inventions
Year: 2008

Sources info: World Tempus

Friday, February 19, 2010

Did You Know...

Have you ever wondered, what is the 21 jewels in my automatic watch means?
Well, heres your answer..

The jewel movement involves the use of jewels within the mens watches to act as bearings at the wheel train as well as around the escapement lever. These are areas within a watch component where wear and tear is the most prominent.

Tiny synthetic gem crystals are set between many of the gears, in order to reduce friction. These gems resist temperature better than metal, and hold lubricant much longer.

Firstly they are extremely hard (it can be as hard as diamonds) to withstand high frequency of abrasion and wearing. Secondly, its smooth surface is perfect for the various steel components in the watch to operate on with much reduced friction.

With the high load and high speed motions within watches, the two advantages of ruby clearly outweigh any possibility of using steel bushings.

There are many categories of jewel movement, for example, 17 jewels, 21 jewels, or 25 jewels. The actual meaning of these numbers is just a representation on the number of rubies used within the mens watches.

Qns: Does it mean that having a 21 jewel movement would equate to better quality than a 17 jewel movement?
Well, not really. The higher numbers reflects more jewels used for the parts to prevent more specific wearing. Or watches with more moving mechanical components would require additional rubies to be fitted in to reduce friction in these areas.In short, a cheap or poorly constructed 25 jewel movement can be less accurate and shorter-lived than a well crafted 21 jewel movement.

More jewels indicate a more complicated movement, which is why many watch enthusiasts are wiling to pay over the odds for them. Also, the more jewels used, the less wear there is on the watch parts.

But it does not necessarily mean better quality watch is being produced. Some watch enthusiasts would not be able to appreciate ridiculously high number jewels if the mechanisms of these mens watches do not require it.

In fact, these rubies are worth about $0.02 each. There is hardly any nominal value attached. Importantly, it is how the rubies are used based on the watch design and components to bring out its best in performance and reliability.

Bell & Ross- BR Minuteur Tourbillon

One of the most striking aspects of the Bell & Ross Minuteur Tourbillon is that it is immediately recognizable as a BR "Instrument," but it is like no other watch in the collection. The case is rectangular rather then square and measures 50mm in diameter and 44mm in height. The size of the case, the strong, bold shape of the bezel and the weight of solid 18 karat rose gold make for a seriously impressive instrument. The case is equipped with a screw-locking crown and is awarded a water resistance rating of 100 meters. This structural strength also represents Bell & Ross' dedication to making professional-quality watches.

The complications of the Minuteur Tourbillon come together on the watch's dial. The first thing that the dial does is to meld the beauty and sophistication of rose gold with the functional and modern nature of the timepiece. This is achieved using carbon fiber. The sporty material is framed by rose gold and gold hour markers and hands are applied. The beauty of the flying tourbillon is accentuated by the used of rose gold for the its carousel. The dial also gives the watch its name as the chronograph minute counter is specially configured to read the time as a decimal value. For professionals that can afford the pink gold Minuteur tourbillon, every tenth of an hour counts.

From what i researched on the net, this timepiece was believed cost up to 150,000.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Omega- Mission hills world cup

OMEGA celebrates its status as the title sponsor of one of the oldest and most prestigious global golf team events with the launch of the Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronograph “OMEGA Mission Hills World Cup”.

Powered by OMEGA’s exclusive Calibre 3313 complete with a Co-Axial escapement, these self-winding Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronographs provide unparalleled performance for sportsmen who understand the value of precision matched with power. The highly tactile aesthetics of these 41mm watches are achieved by contrasting surface finishes, a stunning carbon patterned dial and black rubber coated features making them a perfect ally for outdoor sports.

Available in either 18-carat brushed red gold or titanium with a brushed finish, the case of the Double Eagle Co-Axial Chronograph is a bold combination of classic Constellation features and contemporary design strategies including the incorporation of black rubber.

On the 18-carat red gold version, the bezel is lacquer-coated, while the crown and pushers are in brushed red gold. Red gold Roman numerals are surrounded by the glossy lacquer of the bezel making a daring design statement and the red gold crown displays the OMEGA logo.
On the titanium model, in keeping with the watch’s sporty appeal and in dramatic contrast to the sleek brushed finish of the case, the bezel, crown and pushers have been coated with black rubber. The bezel features steel Roman numerals and in the same way, the rubber coated crown displays the OMEGA logo, a technical achievement and a world premier.

Franck Muller- Aeternitas Mega 4

A tycoon named Mr. Michael J. Gould on the left presented the first Aeternitas Mega 4 personally by Mr. Franck Muller and Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, the co-founders of the Franck Muller.

On Saturday, 7th November, the first Aeternitas Mega 4 Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon watch from Franck Muller was officially delivered to its owner in the prestigious interior of the salon Empire, in the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo.

The event mentioned was a crowning point of the extremely demanding project, initiated in 2004. The Aeternitas Mega 4 watch happens to be the most complicated timepiece ever produced in the world, with 1483 individual elements. The movement of the watch incorporates 36 complications: 25 of them can be admired via the dial and through the case-back window.

This complicated timepiece has now replaced the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 timepiece which held the title of the world’s most complicated watch. With a price tag of $2.27 million this watch is also the most expensive timepiece to be sold outside of an auction.

The lucky owner of this prestigious timepiece was watch collector Mr. Michael J. Gould who arrived in his private jet from his home in Colorado USA, together with his family and friends to collect this complicated watch. He was presented the first Aeternitas Mega 4 personally by Mr. Franck Muller and Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, the co-founders of the Franck Muller Manufacture in front of an audience of 400 guests from all over the world, including dignitaries representing the Monegasque government.

An extraordinary creation, the Aeternitas Mega 4, is touted to be the world’s most complicated wrist-watch, with 36 complications, of which 25 are visible on the dial and on the back, composed of 1483 individual components.

Bovet- 7-day Tourbillon with Jumping Hours

This lyrical timepiece is a result of passion: a combination of high watchmaking know-how and a sense of detail and decoration. The two main BOVET’s complications, the Tourbillon and the Jumping Hours, are being together expressed in all their nuance and lustre.
The dial, openwork on engraved bridges in Fleurisanne style, reveals the complications, the Tourbillon cage at 3 o’clock with its “Lotus Flower” motif, the 7 days (168 hours) power reserve counter at 9 o’clock and the Jumping Hours rotating disk in the centre of the dial. The minutes are indicated by the rotating triangle while the seconds are running with the serpentine hand on the cage of the tourbillon.

Technical Data:
Case: Pink Gold Category: Complication/Fine watchmaking
Bracelet strap: Leather Size: Ø 47.0 mm
Buckle: Folding Buckle Thickness: 16.0 mm
Setting: No Waterproofness: 30 m
Movement: Selfwinding mechanical
Haute horlogerie finishing
Functions: Tourbillon, Power-reserve indication, Jumping hours
Reference: n/a Collection: Fleurier Complications
Year: 2009 Limited Edition: 50 Pieces

Sources info: World Tempus

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Bovet- The Amadeo

“Back to classic” seems to be the motto of the season, and Bovet remains true to its own brand essence with a “classic” example of technical ingenuity.

The Amadeo line—named for the son of Bovet’s owner since 2001, Pascal Raffy—allows the brand’s Fleurier collection to be worn in four ways: as a wristwatch (with either front or back showing), a pocket watch, a pendant, or a desk clock.

A convertible Fleurier tourbillon with power reserve and personalized miniature painting on the back with second time zone.

The very remarkable thing about this timepiece collection’s versatility is that the ergonomic metamorphosis can be achieved without the use of tools. Bovet had been experimenting with the convertible idea for seven years. While the concept is not new to watchmaking, its implementation has certainly rarely been this easy for the wearer. Bovet evolved the concept—which began life as a complete set of parts and tools costing 60,000 Swiss francs above the retail cost of the watch itself—so that it can now be achieved with a few simple clicks and far less cost in manufacturing and to the consumer. In fact, the convertible version of any Fleurier timepiece is now only 1,000 Swiss francs above the watch’s retail, and this cost is chiefly due to the luxurious pocket watch chain.

The Amadeo as a convertible tourbillon with jump hours indication

Roy Davidoff of Bovet explains that the Amadeo begins an “era of flexibility” for the company headquartered in Geneva and with movement manufacturing facilities in Tramelan. Not only can the timepiece be securely transformed in a matter of mere seconds without the use of tools, but Bovet also now offers dial personalization on a smaller scale than the previously available full-scale miniature paintings for a surcharge of only 2,000 Swiss francs. Part of Bovet’s attraction in the modern age has been to offer high-quality personalization for any of its models through custom miniature dial paintings.

Sources info: World Tempus

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Breitling- Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel

Black is the keynote here, variously interpreted in the steel case subjected to an ultra-resistant carbon-based treatment; the unidirectional rotating bezel; the large screw-locked crown and non-slip pushpieces; and on the dial base creating a striking backdrop for the white luminescent hands, hour markers and red-rimmed counters. Its original, technical and powerful appearance makes the Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel limited edition an unmistakable standout model among diver's watches.
But its greatest feat is hidden inside its case, thanks to its magnetic pushpiece system. This exclusive Breitling-patented device serves to activate the controls through the metal of the case, without any direct mechanical contact. This means that whereas most chronographs cannot be used when diving, the Avenger Seawolf Chrono is the only instrument of this type to be watertight and fully operational at a record depth of 1,000 meters (3,300 ft). To accompany professionals to great depths in complete security, this extreme chronograph has been equipped with a decompression valve and a glareproofed sapphire crystal guaranteeing optimal readability in all circumstances.

Its SuperQuartz™ caliber – also exclusive to Breitling – ensures a level of accuracy ten times superior to that of standard quartz movements, enabling it to measure times to within 1/10th of a second complete with split-time indications.

The Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel, issued in a 2,000-piece worldwide limited edition, is available on a – naturally black – Diver Pro rubber strap or on a perforated Ocean Racer strap. In a nod to Breitling's special ties with aviation, its inner bezel ring is adorned with a windrose serving to memorize a course – both underwater or in the air.

Breitling Caliber 73, thermocompensated SuperQuartzTM movement, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.
1/10th of a second chronograph, 60-minute and 12-hour totalizers with split times (split-second hand).


Black steel, limited series of 2,000.
Water-resistant to 1,000 meters (3,300 ft) with functional pushpieces.
Screw-locked crown.
Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel.
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter 45.40 mm.  

Volcano black.

Diver Pro or Ocean Racer.

Source info: World Tempus

Breguet - Tourbillon Fusée with silicon balance-spring

In 1795, Breguet conceived the “Breget overcoil” spring, today still the reference in terms of balance springs. In 2006, Breguet introduced its first wristwatches with silicon balance spring and escapement. Today, the new Breguet silicon balance spring is featured in the Breguet Tradition 7047 model with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission. Inspired by the design of the first tourbillon-equipped pocket watches devised by Breguet, a platinum version is now available fitted with a movement fashioned in an anthracite-toned metal alloy.

The fusee-and-chain transmission connected to the barrel ensures constant force for as long as the watch is running. A number of patents applications involve the large tourbillon resonator at one o’clock on the watch face, one for a titanium balance and three relating to Breguet silicon balance springs. A further patent was awarded for a power-reserve indicator positioned directly on the barrel.

Technical Data:
Movement: hand-wound mechanical movement clad in an anthracite gray alloy of platinum-group metals, with tourbillon regulator. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 569.
Jewels: 43, 16 lignes, 2.5-Hz frequency.
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Case: round in 950 Platinum with finely fluted caseband. Sapphire caseback. Dial in silvered 18K gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine off-centered at 7 o’clock. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Chapter ring with Roman numerals. 60-second tourbillon positioned at 1 o’clock. Open-tipped Breguet hands in polished steel.
Water Resistance: 30m
Diameter: 41 mm. Rounded horns welded to the case, with screw pins securing the strap.
Additional Info: Torque regularity throughout the operation of the watch provided by fusee-and-chain transmission. Upper bridge of the tourbillon carriage in titanium. Breguet-shaped thin bar (barrette) in nonmagnetic stainless steel. Straight-line lever escapement. Breguet balance in titanium with four adjustment screws in gold. BREGUET balance spring in silicon. Adjusted in 6 positions.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

ERNST BENZ- ChronoScope PEK Limited Edition

Happy Chinese New Year!
Introducing this ChronoScope PEK Limited Edition series. Designed and manufactured in Switzerland, they are available exclusively in Ernst Benz’s signature 47mm size with two different dial executions, Noir (Black) and Vermilion (China Red) with both versions limited to only 88 pieces hand-finished in brushed stainless steel; additionally an even more limited version of only 8 pieces per dial which be available in Black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coated brushed steel.
Both have unique dials featuring Traditional Chinese pattern for fire as well as incorporate Traditional Chinese characters for the numerals; with the 8th hour marker written as 08 signifying the importance of this momentous year.
Reference numbers for these special models include the contraction “PEK” for Peking, the historical name for Beijing and the airport code for Beijing Capital International Airport, which was the first official airport of the People’s Republic of China drawing the natural connection to Ernst Benz and aviation.